Scandinavian Salmon Stew With Dill

skinned salmon fillets (preferably Atlantic), pin bones removed; see headnote

fish stock (may substitute 2 cups clam juice plus 1 cup water or no-salt-added chicken broth)

dry white wine

heavy cream

medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups; may substitute other potatoes that are waxy)

pancetta, diced

unsalted butter

medium shallots, minced (about 1/4 cup)

medium button mushrooms, stemmed and cut into quarters (about 2 cups)

sea salt, or more as needed

fresh cracked white pepper, or more as needed

medium leek, white part only, minced

chopped fresh dill