Chicken Pho (Pho Ga)

yellow onions, about 1 pound total, unpeeled

Chubby 4-inch section fresh ginger, unpeeled

chicken, 4 pounds, excess fat and tail removed 

chicken backs, necks, or other bony chicken parts

water

salt

fish sauce

-inch chunk rock sugar (about 1 ounce; see Notes)

coriander seeds, toasted in a dry skillet for about 1 minute until fragrant

whole cloves

small or 1/2 large bunch cilantro (bound stems about 1 inch in diameter)

–2 pounds small flat rice noodles (bánh phở), dried or fresh

Cooked chicken, at room temperature

yellow onion, sliced paper-thin, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes and drained

or 4 scallions, green part only, thinly sliced

chopped fresh cilantro, leafy tops only

Black pepper

bean sprouts (about 1/2 pound)

to 12 sprigs mint (húng) 10 to 12 sprigs Thai basil* (húng quế)

to 15 fresh culantro* (ngò gai) leaves

or 3 Thai or serrano chiles, thinly sliced

or 3 limes, cut into wedges