Cod Cakes

peppercorns

bay leaf

lemon, cut into eighths

cod fillets, or other white flaky fish

unsalted butter

ribs celery, trimmed, peeled and diced

medium-size yellow onion, peeled and diced

garlic, peeled and minced

heaping tablespoon mayonnaise, homemade or store-bought

Dijon mustard

eggs

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper

Old Bay seasoning, Lawry’s Seasoned Salt or 1 teaspoon paprika and 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, or to taste

‘‘sleeve’’ unsalted saltine crackers, crushed, or 1 heaping cup panko bread crumbs

bunch parsley, roughly chopped

neutral oil, like canola